It’s 9.15pm and we’ve managed to find an open restaurant in Speyer. I flick through the menu and nothing is in English. I recognise Schnitzel, Tomatensuppe, baguette. It’s all I’ve been eating the past few days and I’d like a pasta. From what I’ve gleaned from Lance Armstrong’s autobiography, pasta equals good food for cyclists. It’s all about the pasta.
Suddenly, I spot the word lamm. That must mean lamb. I didn’t realise I could speak German. I order lamm and sit back to enjoy my new surroundings.
Speyer is one of the larger destinations along my five day short tour of the Rhine but it is just as welcoming as some of the smallest towns along the way. If my first three days here has taught me anything, it is that after having cycled 58 miles with heavy panniers there are only three things you crave. The first is a beautiful destination, the second is a shower and finally, a hearty meal.
From Koblenz to Speyer
Day one 20 miles, day two 40 miles, day three 58 miles. My progress, or our progress, I should more correctly say, as I am cycling with a friend and I do frequently rely on his slipstream to conserve energy, gives little clue to the beautiful sights we’ve seen along the way.
It is no wonder part of the route is marked as Unesco world heritage. Ancient castles, vineyards clinging to steep hillsides and quaint little towns.
The beauty of the scenery is perhaps only surpassed by the beauty of the organisation. Maps are unnecessary as small arrows point out the route and the occasional sign lets you know the distance to the next town. The majority of the route is off the main road and takes you through forests, fields and along the river.
Germany in general is well catered to bicycles. The drivers are courteous and the signage is consistent, as is the presence of cycle paths that run alongside the road. Small features such as bicycle workstations with tools dangling to be used by passing cyclists hint towards a grander scheme which is in play. Germany is open to cyclists and clearly wants to take the right steps to encourage them.
I for one have certainly been won over. There’s plenty more to talk about from my first few days cycling along the Rhine but the hour is getting late and I’ve got another 60 or so miles to cycle tomorrow so you’ll have to excuse me.
Oh, and if anyone wants to provide me with a few translations of popular restaurant food in Germany then that would be very handy for my next meal!
Also from my cycling trip along the Rhine in Germany:
Phil says
I lived in North West Germany for five years, and it was the best cycling environment I have ever encountered. The UK could learn a lot from Germany.
Keith says
From my small experience of german cuisine, i remember enjoying spätzle… which is a lot like pasta (think its just made of egg, flour and water)
Andreas says
Good tip, will be keeping my eye out for this on the next menu we encounter
Pete says
Spätzle is my favourite of all german foods. Have it with some lentils and sometimes comes with a bratwurst or a frankfurter. Yum!!!
Chris says
That’s lovely mate, sounds like an ace way to spend some time off.
I like German beer hehe.
Oliver (@Frankfurt) says
Pasta means Nudeln in german, but I think every waiter should understand “Pasta” as Italian food is very popular in Germany.
You should try the wine, as well.
Enjoy your trip!
AdamEdwards says
The Family Adventure Project family have been cycling in Germany and then following the Danube into eastern Europe,see:
http://familyadventureproject.blogspot.com/2011/07/composing-classic-central-european-bike.html
May be of interest as a different experience of the same country.
Adam
Samuel says
60 miles, Soon we will see you cycling in all lycra and arguing about the weight of your bottle cage.. ah ah ROFL!
Andreas says
Haha the weight of the bottle cage is the least of my worries! Carrying the kryptonite lock all those miles was the real killer!
Henz says
I’d suggest Knödel (aka. Klöße). Large, very filling, potato dumplings. Not to be confused with Klopse, which are meatballs.
Andreas says
Noting this down 🙂
Tim Benson says
“Zwei grosse Bier bitte,” usually works a treat. Enjoy !